Looking New
Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar from 1933 to 1957, coined Christian Dior’s collection “The New Look” upon its unveiling in 1947. These dresses strayed away from the military-inspired looks of the early 1940s and embraced femininity. Soft rounded curves replaced boxy shoulders, and the garments accentuated a small waistline. The other notable attribute of the dresses was the full skirt, which became the designer’s signature look. Whether blossom or bell-shaped, the pronounced flounce on a Dior dress helped to define the look of the 1950s.
Modern Change
After Christian Dior’s death in 1957, Yves Saint Laurent took the helm at the fashion house. The Algerian-born designer introduced a mod-inspired silhouette to go with the changing times. The “Y” line silhouette took over, as the label churned out tunic-like dresses featuring wide shoulders and a empire waist. By the 1960s, designer Marc Bohan continued in this creative vein, showcasing the “Slim Look”: gamine mini-skirt dresses. Bohan even applied this silhouette to Air France uniforms, which he designed for the airline’s hostesses.
New Blood
Though Gianfranco Ferré succeeded Marc Bohan, John Galliano created quite a buzz for himself with his installment in 1996 -- according to Vogue’s article “Christian Dior.” Galliano rang in his inauguration with a 1920s theme, showing flapper-inspired dresses for his first collection. The British-born designer infused opulence into the collection, with luscious fabrications and beading. Under his creative direction, dresses changed vastly from season to season, with inspirations taken from Asian bordellos, court jesters and even an homage to Christian Dior’s “New Look.”
Clean Slate
After the controversy surrounding Galliano’s exit, designer Raf Simons stepped into the creative directors’ well-worn shoes in 2012. Even though it has been over 60 years since Dior himself designed for the collection, the skirt seemed to still be the predominant feature in Simons’ collection. Dresses under the Belgian’s command are simple and elegant; these contemporary gowns and cocktail dresses feature skin tight bodices, A-line and gathered skirts -- which still manage to accentuate a woman’s curves. And though, Simons has streamlined the Dior woman’s dress, you can still manage to find winks to Christian Dior’s legacy.
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